Cockcrow in the pre-dawn light, breaking camp, working in silence, each on our own predetermined tasks, honed over years on the road together.  Accompanied by a sluggish whisper of wind, a slight creaking of trees and the crisp rustling of dry leaves,  I tighten the last strap of my rear pannier. From far off comes the faint murmur of livestock, a tractor coughs, the countryside is waking up. Therese, her job’s complete too, we start the morning with a gentle kiss, before quietly exiting into the promise of a new day, leaving no evidence of our previous presence.

Cycling single file on back roads, Therese takes point as chief navigator. She is the pathfinder, guiding us forward into a welcoming sky. Early on, we engage in constant chatter that provides a framework for our daily adventure. Sometimes we use cycling hand signals to communicate. Often we say nothing at all, absorbed in the moment surrendering to the visceral ephemeral nature of cycling touring.

While we may know our destination, the journey is always uncertain. Unexpectedly, we come across the remnants of an ancient Roman Temple fenced off in a field accessible via an unlocked gate. In the heat of the afternoon, by an otherwise unremarkable farm road, stands a small monument to an American Air Force crew that perished in a crash nearby during WW2.

At Angouleme, we explored the impressive 12th-century Cathedral. In the City of Tours on the Loire River, we made a pilgrimage to the medieval St. Gatien Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage site with its Romanesque architecture, soaring Gothic features pointed arches, flying buttresses, and 13th-century stained glass windows, an awe-inspiring architectural masterpiece.  Exploring a circular carved stone stairway leading away from the nave, I gently prise open a small window, only to have the latch come away in my hand. Oops! 

Cycling further into the centre of France, along the Coeur de France cycle trail, between the River Cher and the Berry Canal. We arrive at the city of Bourges to rest up for a couple of days. Our campsite near the city centre is Accueil Velo accredited, which means they provide services specifically for cyclists, such as a room with seating, and power points to charge our devices, kitchen facilities and clean, level, shaded pitches. 

Bourges, is home to St Etienne Cathedral, which is also a medieval  UNESCO World Heritage site. In the cool of the early morning, we explore this relic from another age. French heroine Joan of Arc visited here in 1428. There are generations of human drama reflected in these holy monuments. Even if you are of a secular persuasion, it’s hard not to be moved by the faith and ingenuity that built them. Perhaps for the locals who have lived in the shadows of these imposing buildings for generations, faith, culture and everyday life are forever intertwined. 

As a faithless outsider from another time, it’s as if I’m looking in through a frosted window, only partially seeing and understanding what’s in front of me. As I stare up at the leering gargoyles there’s a lingering sense of foreboding. 

I think I’ve had my fill of Cathedrals for now.