Bunda Cliffs to Nullarbor Roadhouse 105 kilometers
Clear cold and crisp start to the day, packed up camp. Then began the 6 km hike back out along the rough track to the highway. At one point I tripped and fell over the top of the bike, and ended up on my back arms and legs akimbo, like a turtle turned on its shell, with no damage done. Just a few more scratches to add to my expanding collection- Ouch!
It felt good to be back on the road again, with fair winds and favorable conditions. I quickly warmed up. The Nullarbor can seem like a brutal landscape, but riding through it you become aware of its subtleties, variations, the microclimates. Here as the desert meets the sea, the landscape appears less harsh. I take the opportunity to turn off the highway where I can view the magnificent Bunda Cliffs, keeping an eye out for whales as I do.
I’m ‘down on the drops’, pushing along at a good rate when I hear the car approaching and slowing down. A quick look in my mirror, I can see the window on the passenger side coming down. I brace myself for what I think might be coming, a bottle, abuse?
I was wrong, a distinctly American voice said “Howdy there.”
I glanced across as they drew level, while the male driver fielded the questions his wife filmed me on her mobile. I guess in the absence of something more exotic. I became the focus. I answered all the usual questions as they kept pace with me Tour de France style, although they didn’t hand over a ‘feed bag’ of goodies!
“How far do travel each day?”
“Depends on a lot of things, the weather, points of interest, how I feel. But on average 100 kms.”
“Where you headed?”
“Melbourne”
“Why are you doing this, for a charity?”
“No, just for myself ”
The questions kept coming, and once they decided they had enough footage, off they roared with a “See you in Melbourne.” goodbye.
As I reached the western edge of the Nullarbor the landscape, changed once more to become the ‘treeless Plain’ in earnest. I roll into the Nullarbor Roadhouse, a real oasis. I decided to treat myself to a room tonight, with a shower and a real bed. The last rest day I had was in Margaret River 3 weeks back. I’m feeling a little sore and tired, Yesterday fall didn’t help. I need the rest before heading off tomorrow when I will be out of the 21st-century range of phone/ internet. Rough camping for a couple of days in the bush.
Cycle Touring Australia and Beyond 
Eddie , I gave Hero the Japanese cyclist I meant the instructions to the Nullarbor touring cyclist log book , so hopefully he will visit and pass them on, essentially between kilometre posts 85 & 86 in South Australia coming from WA you come to the dirt track that leads south towards the sea, 2 ks in turn left (East) for a little over 3 ks until you come to the 3 fences posts on the cliffs edge , at the base of the Northern most post is the log book , I hope you take the time on your travels to make an entry , I followed the notes written by mike one bike , good luck ,
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Bunda cliffs are magic. I can only imagine the beauty of camping there with the stars and sound of the ocean. Very, very glad you didn’t get hurt when you tripped. I imagine there’s not a lot of foot traffic along that path and take it from me, not fun walking 6 km back to the main highway with a sprained ankle or the like. Have spent a few nights at nullabor roadhouse transit either to or from Perth. Exorbitant prices spring to mind but a captive audience so what can you do? The thing I always love about nullabor roadhouse though is at night you can see the trucks headlights approaching for miles and then passing the roadhouse and floating off into the distance. You almost start believing the UFO stories that exist in their abundance out there. Very special energy on the nullabor. Hope you’re not feeling too sore.
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All good thanks Steph , appreciate your comments
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Georgia and I are concerned about you Nick. You need more then raison toast man! Big fry up at one of those truckers roadhouses.
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Tash, we have the Great Parma competition, the best Cesar salad comp etc , why not the best Raisin toast ? , The Great Australian Raisin Toast Survey of 2014 will continue , so far Anchors cafe , Middleton Beach, Albany WA is my favourite , who knows I may pitch the idea to Brumbys or the like , perhaps they would sponsor me to travel Australia sampling raisin toast , but I don’t think there would be any dough in it !!!
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Doing well Nick.
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