The Double D cafe served up a breakfast of champions: Biscuits and gravy for Therese, while I opted for the oatmeal, energy required to sustain us on the 3 mile climb to the summit of Cape Sebastian.
Enveloped in mist we cycled off into the abyss. One of the pleasures of cycle touring in unknown country is that you never quite sure what you may see or where you may sleep that evening.
Today we were once again treated to grandeur on a massive scale. Raw, unspoiled, awe inspiring; superlatives used to describe discount deals at supermarkets hardly seem adequate to capture the majesty and beauty of this final section of the Oregon coast. A twisted line of screeching Bonaparte’s Gulls- hundreds, perhaps thousands in number string out along the coast expanding and contracting like some giant rubber band, to be followed by another and then another, the flocks move in unison one wave after another. From numerous viewpoints along the costal road we are treated to massive seas stacks, islands and jagged basalt outcrops of such proportions it seems in my imagination that a herd of giant Triceratops have beached themselves upon the shore. Evocative place names each provide their own unique perspective. Pistol River, Arch Rock, Thunder Rock Cove, Indian Sands and Rainbow Rock.
Cycle lore dictates that there is always another hill and so it was before we dropped down into the city of Brookings to make camp at Harris Beach State Park. The hiker biker campsites are cheap and often a little away from the main campgrounds. Increasingly such sites attract itinerant travellers and the homeless. While our focus remains on cycling, its disheartening to see such dislocation, which is becoming all too common at home in Australia as well. I’m aware of just what a privileged position I’m in.
Leaving camp. We waved goodbye to our fellow travellers and before long we were waving goodbye to Oregon as we entered California. As if provided by central casting, bright orange Californian poppies appeared by the roadside as towering redwood trees replaced the cedars.