I fell asleep to the sounds of laughter coming from a happy bunch of British backpackers. I woke to the sound of rain, just passing showers.

After the ubiquitous breakfast of Raisin toast and tea in Richmond, I was presented with the first of a series of changeling climbs. I’m not sure if it’s asthma, hay fever, or a cold but I suffered a little today. The countryside was brilliant though, with big vistas. Mountain passes and green valleys dotted with sheep.

I climbed Bust-Me-Gall Hill 346 meters said the official signpost, then up Black Charlie’s Opening, 320 meters. Short and sharp climbs followed by those glorious runs down the other side in wet windy conditions- exciting! Coming into Orford the road followed the river at the base of the hillside and looked quite beautiful.

On the road to Triabunna, I stopped to look at Maria Island half covered in misty rain. Looking broodingly beautiful, Maria Island is a national park now but was a former penal colony. Escapes from it were rare. When a convict did manage to swim in shackles across to Triabunna he was caught and then hung for his trouble. That’s Tasmania: So beautiful and so violent.

My grandfather was a soldier settler at Triabunna after the Great War. Mum still tells stories of her life here as a young girl in the 1920’s. They had no electricity or modern conveniences. I stop at the post office and tap her off a postcard from her old hometown. It’s pretty sleepy even now with the main claim to fame being the ferry service taking tourists to Maria Island and the local homemade scallop pies.

I was planning to take the Ferry over to the island myself tomorrow but the women at the information Centre said the Ferry is fully booked out tomorrow and isn’t running on Wednesday. I should have booked ahead.

The weather report is for more rain and strong south-westerly winds tomorrow. Perhaps they will push me to Swansea or Bicheno further up the East Coast. I need all the help I can get- I’m feeling old.

However, after setting up my tent in the caravan park, having a hot shower and some good food I feel revived!