There are over 40 Rail trails open to cyclists, walkers and horse riders across Victoria and the Camperdown-Timboon rail trail was one I had on my list to ride
I stuffed a few essentials into my panniers, strapped the MSR Hubba tent to the rear rack of Mr Surly and I was ready to go off cycling for a few days.
All rail trails aren’t alike, arriving at Camperdown station at the rail head I realised that the first section of the trail was out on the road; a rookie mistake! I should have downloaded the route map!
Cycling in drizzle under grey skies ‘there was just enough blue sky to make a sailor’s trousers’. The ride began with a steady climb, up out of town that had my heart pumping, skirting along the edge of Mt Luera however my reward was watching Wedge-tailed Eagles sore in the sky above as Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoos called sweetly from the treeline. Cresting the highest point, I stopped to look down on two volcanic crater lakes, the freshwater Lake Bullen Merri and the salty Lake Gnotuk, which is bright pink and ringed with salt. After an exhilarating downhill run to Naroghid, I joined the official start of the trail. Cycling through bushland with farmland crossings, I kept my eyes peeled for birds, I was delighted to see a native Echidna, which was a bonus. The trail was littered with large branches and I needed to keep my wits about me to avoid trouble, I noticed a sign saying that the trail was closed on hot and windy days. I’m not surprised, in high summer the place is a potential tinderbox.
The section between Cobden and Glenfyne is a mix of farming country and forest bushland, with numerous shelters at former railway sidings with storyboards explaining the human history and flora & fauna of the area.
Unfortunately, the trail between Glenfyne and Timboon is temporarily closed for bridge works so I doubled back and took the Litchfield Curdies River gravel road as a workaround. I must have got a little bushwhacked, or taken a wrong turn somewhere as my shortcut seemed to take far longer than I expected. Eventually, I dropped down alongside the Curdies River to discover the impressive Curdies trestle bridge. A beautiful rustic wooden construction that stands as a powerful reminder of bush engineering. From the trestle bridge, it was a marvellously scenic 5-kilometre ride amongst giant eucalyptus trees into the friendly town of Timboon.
After some light refreshments, I pushed on past the local swimming pool where the path joins up with the Timboon to Port Campbell trail. I found this to be easy riding on a firm gravel surface that runs mostly parallel with the main road for 20 ks or so down into the thriving seaside fishing village and tourist town of Port Campbell where my campsite for the night is at the local Caravan Park.
After a relaxing night’s sleep, I was woken early by the bush’s alarm clock, laughing Kookaburras. I brewed up a coffee using my trusty pocket rocket stove then just sat in my foldable chair and drank in the early morning birdsong as warbling magpies joined the corrus, while a couple of Anzac biscuits topped with yesterday’s freshly picked roadside blackberries completed the perfect cyclist’s breakfast. From Port Campbell its 70ks to Warrnambool, padded out just over 90ks with a couple of scenic seaside diversions .
The Great Ocean Road attracts visitors from around the world, enthralled by the natural beauty of wild rugged limestone and sandstone cliffs surrounded by the pounding waves of the Southern Ocean. A relentless sea devours the coast leaving behind monolithic stacks to await their fate. Cycling in the early morning I had these striking vistas all to myself.
Each roadside attraction is more breathtaking than the last: London Bridge, The Grotto, The Bay of Martyrs and Childers Cove. I leave the bike to walk barefoot along a secluded beach, revelling in that simple pleasure of being at one with the natural world.
On the Outskirts of Warrnambool, I take the tourist route through Allensford with a quick stop at the Warrnambool cheese factory, before cycling down to the Warrnambool Breakwater then along the cycle path out to ‘Gannys Grave ‘ before setting up camp at Surfside Caravan Park.
On a barmy summer evening Singing Honeyeaters called up a full moon. I spent the next day sightseeing around Warrnambool before getting a lift home. When the bridgeworks are completed at Glenfyne, I will be back to ride the Camperdown – Tmboon Rail trail again.