
We are on the last leg of our epic bicycle tour around France, cycling the final 700 Kilometres north from Lyon to Luxembourg via the La Voie Bleue velo route, which runs mostly along the Saône and Moselle rivers and the canal des Vosges.
Riding under clear blue skies, in glorious sunshine, through bucolic rural scenes, we feast upon natures bounty munching blackberries, apples and plums as we go. It’s true what they say stolen fruit tastes better.
We arrive early in the afternoon to pitch our tent on the luxurious grounds of the Chateau de l’Eperviere. As is the custom we engage with other cycle tourers, sharing stories from the road, while paying special attention to information regarding the trail conditions ahead.
The route is well signposted along the ‘Sparkling Moselle’. Cycling through tall lush forests on well made paths that empty into medieval cites full of captivating sights. An ideal location to stop for second coffee and a slice of fresh apricot pie with Chantilly cream.
Once an industrial powerhouse that drove prosperity, the interlocking canal system in high summer is now mostly the domain of pleasure craft as summer tourists in rented Le Boats navigate the waterways, we wave and they toot back, and call “Bon journee”.
Cycle touring in foreign countries offers a unique opportunity for learning, something I should do more of, being humbled by the patience of others, as I fumble my words only understanding and speaking a little French or German: “Je comprend un peu le Français”. Thankfully, Therese knows more French and German and is also excellent at making those essential human connections.
Benjamin Franklin said, “Many people die at twenty five but aren’t buried until they are seventy five”. However I’m meeting ordinary people of all ages having extraordinarily experiences. Adventurous souls from around the world, who display an openness and generosity of spirit which is genuine, infectious and uplifting.
A countless cavalcade of characters have come into my life: like Frankie the laughing 80 year old Dutch rider heading for the Swiss Alps on his trusty old bike refusing to ever succumb to an electric version or the amazingly spirited Sylvia from Kenya, whose life has been transformed by riding her humble bicycle from Nairobi to New York. There’s a zest for life in most people just seeking an outlet.
Ive had plenty of time while cycling for reflection and introspection. I’ve even completed a rough, back of the envelope calculation on the number of nights I’ve spent in a tent while cycle touring. Surprisingly, it added up to just over 2 years of my life! Must be time for a new tent.





Leave a comment